A good quality lawn is dependent on the preparation and aftercare. Although this article refers mainly to turf lawn, please note that all preparation and maintenance steps also apply to seed lawns.
For best results turf should be laid, or seeds sown, in spring or early autumn. Always prepare and lay your new lawn when the ground is dry and reasonably warm, as moisture will make the job much harder and very messy.
STEP 1 PREPARATION
Compacted poor soil can impair your lawn’s growth so this step is very important.
All old turf, grass, weeds etc need to be removed as well as any large stones, rocks, debris or large roots.
Turn over the soil as much as possible to a minimum depth of 10cm (for large areas it may be easier to hire a rotivator or mini bobcat). This will break up the soil and aerate it, essential for better root growth.
At this point with clay soil or poor drainage it is advantageous to add sand, grit or mulch to the soil.
On very poor soil use a starter fertiliser, and add a new layer of topsoil for best results.
STEP 2 LEVELLING
It is extremely important to ensure that the ground for your new lawn is smooth and level, and very slightly downward sloping away from your property.
This is made easier by using pegs and string to mark the level, with the furthest end being lower. We recommend a minimum downward grade of 3cm for every 10 metres.
Rake the soil to spread it out evenly. Lightly trample all over the area, or use a roller, to even out any bumps and level the surface. The surface should be firm so the new lawn doesn’t sag or have soft pockets, but not too compacted so new roots can easily penetrate.
For larger lawn areas you can hire soil levelling equipment.
STEP 3 ORDERING TURF
Measure the area to be covered in square metres (length x width).
Arrange delivery for when you are ready to lay your turf. Most turfs are delivered on pallets or in rolls and should be laid as soon as possible, especially in warm weather.
Never leave the turfs longer than 24 hours before laying, irrespective of whether they are rolls or flat sheets, especially if you don’t know how they have been stored by the supplier.
STEP 4 LAYING TURF
Avoid putting all your weight on one spot by using wooden planks across the turf and soil to spread your weight more evenly.
Start around the outside perimeter and work inwards towards the centre, or at least work from both sides towards the middle. Don’t work from one side across to the other, or from the centre outwards, as small pieces or thin strips will be too vulnerable on the edges.
Fit the turfs together as tightly as possible, and press the turfs down firmly onto the soil.
Use a sharp knife or half-moon cutting tool to cut turfs to size and shape.
Your new lawn will need watering as soon as it is laid, so move on to step 5 without delay.
STEP 5 WATERING
Watering correctly is probably the singularly most important factor in your new lawn’s growth, and the hardest to gauge. Over-watering can cause the grass to suffocate and can increase the chance of disease, but new shoots are particularly susceptible to under-watering and drought.
Bear in mind that water does not enter the plant via the leaves and, therefore, a wet surface does not necessarily mean that the lawn is getting enough moisture from the soil. The soil needs to be getting wet to the depth of the roots but if there is water pooling on the surface the grass will be unable to breathe (hence the need for proper soil preparation and drainage). Insufficient water will cause discolouration, thinning, and the blades of grass will not stand upright.
Using a hose is probably the least efficient way of watering your lawn accurately, and using a sprinkler is the best method – but don’t use a timer, as your lawn may get far too much water if it rains at the same time.
To tell if your soil is getting enough water push a knife down into it. If it pushes down very easily and comes out cool and clean the soil is more than likely moist enough.
This rough guideline will tell you how often to water your grass, but obviously depends on the amount of rainfall too:
New turf (and seeds) – water immediately after laying then twice a day for the first fortnight (morning and evening)
2 to 6 weeks – water 2-3 times a week (morning)
After 6 weeks – water once a week (morning, and twice a week during hot dry periods)
As the roots grow deeper the soil will need the moisture to reach deeper too so you may need to increase the amount of water accordingly, although watering less often.
During the spring and autumn seasons your established lawn will need less water. Don’t water at all during the winter months.
STEP 6 MOWING
Mowing your lawn correctly plays a huge part in it’s condition and health. Incorrect mowing can damage, and even kill off, your grass.
Contrary to popular belief, your new turf lawn should be first cut as soon as possible once the lawn is established, usually 2-3 weeks depending on the type of grass and the weather. Try lifting up different parts of the lawn and check the edges. If the turf mat does not lift easily and the roots are holding in the soil, you can mow. If it lifts wait another week and try again.
Grass responds to change so try to keep your lawn at roughly the same height consistently. It doesn’t matter if you mow once a day or once a week providing it doesn’t grow too long and isn’t cut too short.
If the grass is left to grow longer use several cuts, adjusting the cutting blade height, to bring it back down to the right level. Your lawn shouldn’t be mown during the winter months (November to March) so you will need to use this method for the first cut in the spring, removing a third of the height each time until you get down to the required length.
You should never really cut your lawn shorter than 3cm, but if you want to go shorter remember that the sun can scorch the more tender tissues at the base of the grass. The slightly taller, darker green blades provide protection against this happening.
The type of mower you use, whether cylinder or rotary, doesn’t matter providing the cutting blade is kept sharp. Never use a dull blade as this will tear and damage the lawn.
STEP 7 USING YOUR NEW TURF LAWN
Light foot traffic is usually fine after 2-3 weeks but a game of football, a garden party, or dogs chasing each other, should be left until at least 6-8 weeks after laying – the longer the better so the lawn is well established
STEP 8 AERATING
Once a year in spring or autumn you should aerate your lawn and soil. This is much easier when the soil is slightly moist, not dry and hard. De-thatch any sparse or damaged areas with a lawn rake first.
Aerating can be done by using a garden fork to poke holes into the soil through the lawn to a depth of at least 7cm, or by cutting and removing a plug of the grass and soil every 20cm.
This helps prevent compaction, thatching and disease, and promotes good drainage and healthy new root growth.
For larger areas of lawn there are various types of aerating tools available for hire.
STEP 9 FERTILIZING
It’s best to use a fertiliser in late autumn. Ask your local supplier for one specifically for autumn and winter feeding, and suitable for your climate. A 3:1:2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is a good mix suitable for most lawns and climates.
If spreading by hand try to apply evenly from end to end and then again at right angles from side to side, and don’t go over the edges of the lawn as it will contaminate other plants etc.
Even for small lawns it is best to hire a fertilizer spreader for even coverage, and seek advice from the supplier.
STEP 10 WEED CONTROL
Proper maintenance and care of your lawn should keep weeds to a minimum, but it’s advisable to use a proprietary herbicide in the spring with spot treatments throughout the summer if necessary.
If you didn’t fertilize in the autumn, you can use a herbicide and fertilizer mix.
STEP 11 REPAIR
Repairing damage and bare spots from kids’ play, pets, pests, disease etc is much easier if done regularly, as and when necessary, rather than waiting until there is lots of damage and it becomes overwhelming.
Use a seeding mixture which combines seeds, fertiliser and mulch. Remove any thatch, aerate the patch you want to repair, and apply the mix according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Use wire mesh or netting to protect the area until the new grass is established.
All the above may give the impression that care and maintenance of a lawn is time consuming and laborious, but it is well worth the effort to ensure your lawn is lush, green and the envy of your neighbours and friends.
Try to get into a routine where you spend one to two hours each week caring for your lawn, rather than waiting until any problems or maintenance jobs escalate.
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